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JCM800 2204 Ready to rock

Hello, I’ve finished my JCM 800 2204 build. It uses TRL transformers (made in Brazil). Sozo, NOS Philips, and Atom capacitors. Vishay resistors. For the electrolytic capacitors, I used 47µF F&T units. The amplifier sounds fantastic and has very low noise. I installed an LND150



effects loop from EvolveDIY, and also added a "bright" switch and a PPIMV (Post-Phase Inverter Master Volume). I included a few other modifications aimed at keeping noise to a minimum. It’s loaded with Tung-Sol EL34 power tubes and JJ E83CC "frame grid" preamp tubes. Thanks!


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18W TMB PCB – Possible Wiring Errors in Layout (S1, EL84 and EZ81)

Hi everyone,


I’m building the AA Electronics 18W TMB amplifier and have encountered a serious voltage drop at EZ81 pin 3:


  • Standby OFF: approximately 290V DC

  • Standby ON: approximately 12V DC

After checking the wiring against the supplied layout, I noticed two possible issues:


1. Standby and EL84 cathode connections


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Subject: 18W TMB build solved – possible corrections for layout rev 1.0.0


I have solved it, my 18W TMB build is now working and sounds great. Thank you for designing this board.


While troubleshooting I found a few points where the wiring layout (rev 1.0.0, 05/05/23) does not match the schematic (rev 2.0.0, 28/09/24). I'm sharing them so other builders don't run into the same problems.


1. Standby switch and EL84 cathode wires swapped on the PCB

In the layout, the wire from the standby switch S1 goes to the pad above C21 (cathode node: C21/R27 130R), and the wire from EL84 pin 3 goes to the pad next to R26/C20. Following the layout, B+ was connected straight to the 130R cathode resistor when standby was switched on: the voltage dropped from about 290V to about 12V. According to the schematic it should be the other way round:

- S1 output -> pad next to R26 (C20+, together with the OT centre tap)

- EL84 pin 3 -> pad above C21 (C21+/R27)

After swapping the two wires, everything measured correctly.


2. EZ81: D1 and C26 drawn on pin 2

The layout shows D1 (UF4007) and one leg of C26 on pin 2 of the EZ81. Pin 2 is an internal connection; the anodes are pins 1 and 7. The schematic correctly shows pin 1.


3. Input jacks have no ground connection

In the layout, the sleeves of J1/J2 are only linked to each other, and J3's sleeve only goes to pin 1 of the MV pot (P7). There is no wire to ground, so the layout assumes the jacks are grounded through the chassis. With insulated (plastic Cliff-style) jacks, J1/J2, J3 and P7 pin 1 are left floating. In my build this caused loud hum and almost no signal on the Normal channel, and a very weak TMB channel. Adding a ground wire from the jack sleeves to a ground point solved it. A note or an extra ground wire in the layout would help.


A small extra tip: the layout shows the output transformer centre tap as a black wire. On the Hammond 1750PA the centre tap is red (blue and brown are the plates). I had red and brown swapped at first, which unbalanced the output stage.


Final measurements (no limiter, EL84s in, speaker connected):

- B+ (C20): 326V

- EL84 cathode (R27): 10.1V

- EL84 plates: 314V / 315V

- EL84 screens: 305V / 305V


I'm happy to send photos if that's useful. Is there a newer revision of the layout?


Best regards,

Ronald

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Help with SLO100

Hey Guys!


Creating another post since it seems like the forum has been more active. I have a dead SLO 100 on my bench that has been languishing for over a year. Here's what is going on:


Amp powers up, relays work, all tubes glow and get expected voltage. Bias circuit works. After some time (approximately 30 seconds to one minute), the current limiter bulb slowly grows in brightness until it is BRIGHT, and at the same time, the indicator LEDs for the amp's channels dim.


I'm using the recommended power transformer. This problem only happens when the power tubes are installed, and I've checked the power tube pins and circuit a million times.


Any help would be wildly appreciated. Dr. Andrea? Thanks!

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Hey man, I am not an amp tech, but, it sounds like you hmight have some faulty tubes? Or you could have runaway bias?

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Fox 30 pcb in vintage style chassis?


I’m wishing to build a vintage style AC 30 however I don’t have much faith in the vintage layout. Can the fox 30 board be fitted to vintage chassis and built up?


The idea being to build a studio quiet AC-30.


Thanks for your assistance

Regards

Mark

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12V relay power ODS #183

I was under the impression that the #183 ODS board configuration was kinda plug and play only to find out if you don't have a specific tap on your power transformer you have to use different 5V relays and not BOM specified 12V.

or add an additional 12v power source? Sorry for the rant,but did notice people with a small transformer in their build images,now I know why....no mention of it on the layout. I am really green at this so maybe it's just me and I can't see it on the schematic? I'll keep searching for answers....

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What taps or transformers do you have available to you? The AA 183 schematic uses a voltage-doubler cell to convert a 6 VAC secondary winding into the raw DC voltage required for a 12 VDC regulator and 12V relays. There are other ways to power the relays, some more involved than others, but as you correctly point out, the decision is driven by what AC source you have available to you.

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highway31highway31

No Values, no Numbers in the PCB

I'm totally pi**** off!

Have you ever bought a circuit board anywhere where neither the component labels (R1, R2, etc.) nor their values were printed on it?

Nothing! Absolutely nothing...

That's what I got after placing my order!

Check out the Black-Eye hot-rod board.

142 Views

Dear Jochen,

The black eye board has been developed in another software (Eagle) a long time ago. The original version hasn’t been modified/ported to the new software, hence there are no numbers. You will see that all the other PCBs have them, as they are relatively new products. You can still use the layout as a reference.


I understand the frustration, but it’s the first I got this complaint on more than 200 boards sold.

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ODS with 4xEL84s

ALL, I am here because my brother and I were in the process of building a ODS but decided to use a quad of EL84s instead of 34s. Well my brother has since passed away from colon cancer in Augest '25. He was going to build his own eyelet boards and engineer this whole project. Then I found this site with the boards and layout and thought I could probably do this....? We had already purchased the transformers and chasis, Hammond 370FX and 1750G. I really hope if someone could just chime in with some "definite changes" I will need to make to get this thing to function with 4xEL84s. I just purchased a Hammond 194E choke (VoxAC30 30H 100ma). I'm thinking that might have been a wrong move. According to Google A.I. it was.... This is really a big undertaking for me.But thought it would be a huge learni…


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Dumble Resistor Wattage

I've noticed a discrepancy in three of the resistors listed on the BOM for the Dumble builds, when compared to the layout and schematic. R24 is shown as 1 watt in the BOM but 2 watts on the schematic and layout. R25 and R26 are shown as 2 watt on the BOM but 3 watts in the layout and schematic.

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102 dumble bass treble, and mid stopped working

Can anyone help with any ideas why they would stop working?

Thank you, Bill D.

157 Views

Can you give a bit more details? Have they worked before? Did you change anything? Are you in clean or OD mode? Do you have the boost on?

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